Forum Title: Door Repair Questions (hinges and sagging)
Hello, I've read up on this on a few different websites and some forums and feel like I've accumulated some decent solutions, but I also thought I'd post and get some more specific comments in regards to my particular situation. Below, is a photo of a door that I recently took down in order to repair. It's the back door to our home in New Orleans and measures about 34 X 88. I stripped it, replaced the door hardware and glass as it was in terrible shape. Here are my questions if anyone has any opinions: 1. Hinges and sagging I replaced the original 1/8 regular glass with 1/4 tempered glass. This added additional weight to the door, of course and now I'm getting some sagging. The bottom left of the door now rubs against the door sweep/stop. The rubbing is at the bottom, below the knob and lock. I am able to lift the door (though it doesn't feel like it moves much) to get it to close. It's about 1/16 of rub from what I can tell. I really hate to sand the door down, because it was fine before and I feel like this could be repaired by doing one of two things, based on what I've found. First, I should replace the existing 3 X 3 door hinges with either 3.5 X 3.5 or 4 X 4 hinges to give it more support, now that there is a bit more weight. Agree? Second, I've read that I should screw in longer screws into the top hinge into the jamb which will pull that corner up more. Is this correct? Should I do both of those things or is upgrading from 3 to 3.5 or 4 unnecessary? 2. You'll notice that the top of the door isn't square with the door frame. The upper right corner is fitted properly. True, the door in general isn't well constructed and square (the center beams don't line up), but I'd like to fix the top of this door if possible. I had the idea of cutting it all square at the top, in line with the lowest point (left side where light is showing through) and then cutting an appropriately sized new strip of oak or cypress to glue to the top of the door. Stacked on top of the door, essentially, which would let me square that up with the frame. However, from what I've read and what I've come to know in my limited experience so far, I could have issues with wood movement. And, the first time it gets cold or warm each season (bear in mind, New Orleans is very hot in the summer and plenty of humidity), that the door will move, but the top piece attached to the door via wood glue or screws will not move. Thus, it'll not only look awful within a year but could also make my door structurally worse than it already is. Will I have movement issues or am I overestimating that? Thanks for any input you care to offer. DOOR PHOTO
Category: Windows & Doors Post By: TODD SANDERS (Flagstaff, AZ), 01/30/2019

Anything you can do to reinforce the lock area is woth the effort, but don't forget the hinge side. It is also vulnerable. The harder you make it for forced entry, the better the chance they will go somewhere else.

- NICHOLAS COOPER (Jackson, MS), 02/21/2019

Remove the two inside screws from the top hinge on the jamb side. Open the holes to the hinge size. Install #12 3 screws in those holes into the house framing. Tighten to snug and check the door fit. Now start tightening about 1/2 turn at a time and you will see the door begin to straighten up. Get it to even gaps around the top and latch side. That should solve the problem.

- NEIL GRAVES (Bloomington, IN), 02/12/2019

As for issue #2, is the door out of square? What about the door opening? Is that top rail equal width along its length?

- GRACE GARZA (Lake Charles, LA), 02/16/2019

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